Over The Mountains And The Sea – Day 1

As I so often do before a morning flight, I had slept in stops and starts. Still, I got a decent amount of sleep. At 05:30, I decided it was time to get up. I went to have a shower. When our alarm went off at 06:00, Graham had a quick shower, too while I rounded up the few things that I had unpacked. Then we went to check out. This was a very quick process. The beauty of this particular hotel is that it is so close to Terminal 2. We just had to cross the road, walk past the car park and we were there. Better still, there was a security area just opposite to where we entered the terminal. Just as we approached security, they closed this area down and we were sent to security at the opposite end of the terminal.

I messed up a little bit at that stage. I had added both of our boarding passes to the wallet of my phone. I had then sent Graham’s boarding pass to his phone but had not deleted it from my phone. When I had to scan my boarding pass to enter the security area, I accidentally scanned his. This then meant that it would not accept it when he tried to scan it. I was trying to pass him my mobile, but this set off alarms. I did approach the assistance desk and handed the guy there my mobile and he let Graham in.

Security itself was pretty crazy. I wondered why they had closed the other check point. Eventually it was our turn. Graham’s hand luggage passed muster as did my handbag with all the gadgets and our overnight toiletry bag. My hand luggage however went on a detour. They had quite a backlog of items that needed manual screening. When it was my turn, it was my jewellery that had caused offence. He checked he box that my jewellery was in and swapped my backpack for chemicals. Then I was free to go.

We had hoped to get some breakfast at San Carlo, but with the various holdups, there was not enough time. Graham went to find a seat while I quickly went into Boots. I wanted to get another travel toothpaste. When I came back, our gate was listed. Up to this point, ever since the first phase of the terminal 2 expansion had opened, we had always flown from the A gates. This time we were flying out of the B gates, which are much closer. Better still,  our gate was right by the entrance to the B gates.

We went to find a seat. It did not take long until they started calling the first boarding group. It turned out that we needed to take a bus to the plane. The plane was parked about as far away as it was possible. Still, things were well organised and soon we were on board.

We had planned to get some breakfast on the plane. We had even picked out what we were planning to order. However, by the time they came round, the moment had passed and neither of us ordered anything. I spent most of the flight reading. The flight was smooth, and we arrived in Barcelona slightly ahead of time.

Like Manchester, Barcelona is a much-maligned airport. However, our experience has always been very good. This time was no exception either. Unlike in Manchester, we were parked at an airbridge. The line for passport control was not particularly long and moved swiftly. When we got to the baggage hall, there was a short wait until baggage from our flight started to appear. However, once the first suitcases came out, ours were not far behind.

At this stage we hit the only snag. While we were waiting to board our plane in Manchester, Graham had wondered how much an Uber to Montserrat would cost. This was actually surprisingly affordable, and we figured this would not be much more than the various train tickets for the two of us. We decided to go with this for the sheer convenience. Initially the pick-up area for ride share services was signposted, but then the signposts just stopped. At that stage, we headed back inside the terminal and towards the metro. This was a bit of a hike, but once we got to the station and had our tickets, we only had a short wait until a train in the right direction arrived.

The interchange between the metro and the train was quite straightforward and the station was managed by the right train company, which meant that we could get a through ticket including the rack railway. When we got to the platform, we had a wait of around 20 minutes. This was not too bad as the trains that go to the closest station for Montserrat only provide an hourly service. The train was surprisingly full. I managed to find a seat, but Graham was standing up with our luggage for just under half of the journey. Eventually the train emptied out a bit and Graham was able to join me.

The previous two times that we had taken the train to Montserrat; the train had arrived on the same side of the station that the rack railway leaves from. This time round, it arrived on another platform. Thankfully, there was a lift on both sides of the underpass. I was a bit nervous about missing the rack railway as this is again only an hourly service. However, we had plenty of time. The rack railway was not busy at all and there was plenty of space for us and our luggage.

We had a nice clear run up the mountain. Our accommodation was very close to the rack railway. I had not been entirely sure where this was as recently as the previous weekend but had worked out that it was on the square near the rack railway. My hunch proved correct. I had walked past there multiple times on previous visits and never even knew it was there. We did however hit another snag. There was a sign on the door that reception was closed and to check in at the hotel Abat Cisneros. This is closer to the basilica and up a rather steep hill. I left Graham and our luggage near our accommodation while I went to check in. This did not take long. I went back to join Graham, and we headed to our room.

When I booked this, I was under no illusion on what I was letting myself in for. Essentially this is a hostel. However, for this, it is rather nice as it has individual ensuite rooms rather than dorms with shared facilities. I have to admit though that some of the reviews I read in the run up to this trip left me a little spooked. I need not have been worried. The beds were comfortable. I knew that we had to make them up ourselves, but that did not bother me. We had a fitted sheet and a pillowcase each as well as a top sheet to use with a comforter. It did not take long to make the beds. Towels were provided, but toiletries were not. Again, this did not bother me as I always travel with my own toiletries. The bathroom was spacious and had a great shower. The room had plenty of storage, a desk, multiple power outlets and even a TV. We both agreed that this was nicer than some of the Ibis hotels or Travelodges we have stayed at over the years. Better still, the location could not be beaten.

When we were on the train, Graham mentioned that the first task once we were checked in was getting something to eat. However, once we got to our room, he lay down on top of the bed and within seconds, he was asleep. I know when I am beaten. I read for a while and then I went to the little supermarket across the square. I got a bottle of Fanta and a bottle of water. I also spotted some almond biscuits that I bought. Past experience tells me that if Graham goes to sleep when we are travelling, he usually does not wake up again until the next day. I did have a look at the bar that was next door to our hostel as I had read that they do things like burgers. I could not see any evidence of this. Then I headed back to our room and read some more.

Eventually Graham did stir. I quickly made up his bed and then we headed out.  Whenever we had visited Montserrat before, we had always eaten at the buffet. However, by the time we got going, this was closed. About halfway between our hostel and the building where the buffet was, was a cafeteria. We decided to check this out. This was an interesting concept. They had a range of sandwiches, salads, pastries, and other grab and go items. They also had a selection of food that was meant to be eaten hot like burgers and pasta. You paid for those and then there were industrial microwaves where you could heat them up. Graham had sandwich made from the Spanish take on a baguette with Iberico ham, cheese and a tomato spread and a garden salad. I decided to brave the microwaves and had some penne bolognaise. I also had a chocolate dipped croissant. We both had an Americano with our meals. Everything was tasty.

Once we had our food, we went exploring. Graham pointed out the cross where we had intended to go to see the sunset. This was quite high up and we both felt that this was not somewhere we wanted to be after dark without some strong flashlights. We spent some time enjoying the views from near the building where the buffet is located. Not only are the views truly stunning, but we also saw all kinds of interesting birds. There were a lot of house martins, which I had seen on a few occasions before. However, there were also a few swallows, which were a first for me.

We did go up to a garden area that marks the beginning of one of the long-distance pilgrimage routes. This provided some rather pretty views. We also had a look at the farmers’ market. Our original plan had been to get some stuff from a picnic from there. However, it turns out that all the stalls sold the local soft goat cheese, honey, and date bread. This would not have made a very satisfying picnic. In fairness, the supermarket opposite the hostel had plenty of supplies for a picnic, but after the very late lunch, we figured we would not want to eat again that day.

With our plans to watch the sunset from St. Michael’s cross cancelled, I revisited the idea to attend the Vespers service to hear the famous boys’ choir, Escolania, sing. I was lucky enough to hear them sing during the lunchtime prayer service in 2016. However, the pieces of music are different for both services. In 2016, only the youngest boys were present as the older boys were on a choir tour. We only had one key and Graham said he would either be on a bench near the cafeteria, or he would get a beer at the bar.

On my way to the basilica, I noticed an important piece of information. On a noticeboard opposite the rack railways was some information about the funiculars. There was a timetable for the funicular going up the mountain. There was also a notice that the funicular going down to Santa Cova was closed for emergency repairs until further notice. Our original plan had been to go down to Santa Cova that day, but between Graham’s nap and our late lunch, it was too late to attempt this. This worked out. Last year Graham headed down in that general direction and he commented that the first part of the trail is quite steep and very close to the cliff edge. As I struggle with going down steep hills and I am terrible with heights, I knew that if we could not use the funicular to get down the steep part, Santa Cova was off the menu.

For the lunchtime service, you need a reservation. The same is not true for the Vespers service, chiefly because all the tour groups have left by then. I was still not sure how early I would need to be there to get a seat. I headed to the basilica quite early. There was a rosary prayer going on when I got there. I was happy to sit down and just appreciate my surroundings. The turn out for the Vespers service was pretty good, but I did not need to be their early to get a seat.

Montserrat is a working Benedictine monastery with a community of about 80 monks. Not all of them were present. I think it was about half that. What was encouraging that the community consisted of a wide range of ages. The monks sang most of the service. I did not understand a word of what was going on. I am also not familiar with Roman catholic liturgy. However, the service was beautiful, and the atmosphere was very peaceful. Towards the end of the service, the boys’ choir came out. They sang one piece with the monks who then filed out. The choir stayed behind and sang another piece. Then the service was finished. I was so happy that I had this opportunity.

Once the service was over, I headed back towards our accommodation. There were few people around and experiencing Montserrat with so few people around was truly magical. I was in no hurry and took a few photos as I walked. When I got back to the square where our hostel was, I found Graham at one of the tables outside the bar. The bar was already closed even though it was supposed to be open. I sat down for a bit and enjoyed the mild evening. After a while, we decided to head inside.

The piece of paper that I was given with the keycard indicated that dinner and a bar was available at the hostel. We went to floor where the buffet is located, and it turned out that the restaurant and the bar were only open on Fridays and Saturdays. We headed back to the room and relaxed for a while. Graham decided to call it a day soon after. I read for a while and then I got ready for bed, too.